As Always, Julia by Joan Reardon

Author:Joan Reardon [Reardon, Joan]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

Per 1 cup cooked mashed potatoes:

1⅓ TB butter

1½ yolks (the US "large" egg, 1 TB per yolk)

1 TB cream (or milk, which is less rich!)

salt, pepper, etc.

I found 1 yolk per cup was not quite enough for patties, but would be sufficient for borders, etc. I don't find it too eggy; but I don't find it as good as plain, mashed, yolkless, creamy potatoes.

For browning: Sprinkled a bit of grated Swiss cheese on top, and dotted with butter. Can stand that way for hours, ready to pop into broiler.

Idea from Simca, making pancakes of Pommes Duchess, patted into shape on a floured board (disks, really), about 3 inches in diameter and ⅜ inches high. In middle of one, place any kind of a filling, such as mushroom duxelles mixed with a bit of Swiss cheese, lay a thin slice of ham on top of that, then moisten the outside edge and place on top the other potato disk and press the edges down. Paint with melted butter, and put in oven or under broiler to brown. She said it was very good.

CELERY RAVE is Celeriac, celery root, those big bulby things. I've seen them in Washington, on our last trip there. Maybe in some foreign markets in Cambridge. KOHL-RABI, according to André Simon's Encyclopedia of Gastronomy, and a most useful reference book, is a hybrid of the cabbage family which must be grown very quickly to be fit to eat. Its base stem is swollen and nutty in flavor and tender. Quite popular on the Continent, but not in England or the US. I ain't never seen this baby, but will keep an eye out.

I am surprised your potato soufflé didn't turn out, as I thought all of Woman's Day recipes were foolproof. But I do seem to remember that the oven thermostat on your stove is off ... so maybe it was never at 350. How much potatoes for ¼ lb. of butter? Certainly isn't much more than a Duchess plus egg-whites, but seems like lots of butter unless for over 2 lb. potatoes.

MUSHROOMS. I don't think you get your butter and your pan hot enough before you start in ... Remember doing those scallops, how hot the pan had to get so the juice wouldn't run out? If juice runs out, you have failed, actually. As water content evaporates, they begin to brown, but should do so only lightly, so as not to get a burny taste.

This little business with Louisette is turning out to be something of a problem. My fault, as I don't see why we should have all the responsibility and do all the work, and she come along for the ride. And poor old Simca has been the work horse all these years. After having discussed it with Louisette in Paris, and having said I would send her a letter, I have now heard nothing from her at all, after our most carefully thought-out letter, batted back and forth between Simca and me. As

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